Busselton to Perth 21/5 to 29/5

Jetty Length 2km

Wind Vane

Jetty Train

After leaving Margaret River we stopped briefly at Busselton, a town situated on the tranquil waters of Geographe Bay.  It is notable for its recently refurbished jetty which is reported to be the longest in the Southern Hemisphere at 2km.  We had to pay $2.50 for the privilege of walking 2 kilometres to the end of the jetty.  Passing many fishermen along the way I was interested to learn that they also are required to pay $2.50 each and every time they want to fish from the jetty.  I couldn’t help but think that there must be a lot of fish in this area!

Leschenault Inlet

Koombana Bay Jetty

Bunbury Lighthouse

 Our stop for the next two 

days was Bunbury.  Located on a peninsula surrounded by water, Bunbury is famous for its sandy beaches, fishing and for the many dolphins who live in Koombana Bay.  We were both impressed with the facilities provided for both walkers and bike riders in this picturesque town.  There are many impressive new homes built near the port.  Once sand hills, the land previously owned by the port authority has been redeveloped into an expensive new suburb.  The view from Mariston Hill which was the original lighthouse site was amazing and now included the old lighthouse which was moved to its new location in 1971 to create a landmark....I loved the checker board paintwork!  Once again met up with Dennis and Diana Freeman and enjoyed a chance to catch up and chat, over a glass of wine or two.

Our campsite in Conservation Park

After leaving Bunbury we drove 25km to our next freestay at Leschenault Peninsula Conservation Park, one that we would recommend to future travellers.  We were surprised that we had this campsite to ourselves and it was great to be up close and personal with so much wildlife.  We even had internet and television reception here, complete with a campfire including wood for the fire.  

Friendly dolphin in Inlet

Chasing Cobbler

St Nicholas Church  3.6m wide and 8.2m long

 On the way we stopped for morning tea at Australind.  Once a sleepy backwater, now a thriving township, Australind is adjacent to the Leschenault Inlet and if you lived here you’d have to own a boat or kayak.  It’s also the site of Australia’s tiniest church – St Nicholas Anglican Church. We enjoyed watching the dolphins in the inlet.  They come so close. Locals told us these bottlenose dolphins love eating the cobbler in the estuary.  These cobbler look like eels but have a long, sharp, poisonous spine at the back of their head...mmmm delicious! 

Peninsula from Australind side

Australind from Leschenault Peninsula

After setting up the caravan, we unpacked our bikes and set off to explore this peninsula by riding to Belvidere & Buffalo Beaches.  At Leschenault our campsite was located between the Inlet and the Sea, with great views of Australind on our East and  Bunbury to the Southwest.  The distance across the peninsula is probably no more than a couple of hundred metres in width and it gradually diminishes as it closes upon the entrance.  This is a pristine waterway which is perfect for kayaking and we were amazed to see dolphins chasing fish almost directly under our feet.

Mark cooking up a storm

Surf Beaches - Belvidore & Buffalo

Not a home that impressed!

We also tried out our new ‘plastics’ (fishing lures) without success, but there will be plenty of other opportunities further down the track.  After following the heritage trail, it was interesting to read of the townships that had been located on this Peninsula.  Without roads and telephones the easiest way to let local shop owners across the inlet know that they needed attention was to hang out a white sheet.  There were a few very ramshackle examples of previous inhabitants on the peninsula.  However it was very easy to see why people would want to live in this area.  It was beautiful!

Lake Clifton Thrombolites

After a stop at Lake Clifton to view thrombolites, we travelled to Mandurah.  Another educational fact for the blog, thrombolites are formed by microbialites.  Scientists believe that these kinds of structures provided the oxygen that meant life could exist on the earth.  Today these living fossils exist in water less salty than sea water.  Obviously Lake Clifton was an ideal environment for them.

From Lake Clifton we drove to Mandurah, which is the fastest growing city in Australia.  It is quite beautiful with the Indian Ocean to the west and the Harvey Peel Inlet to the south and east.  This inlet is two and a half times the size of Sydney Harbour, so we are talking about an impressive amount of water.

View from City Centre Mandurah

The waterways are an integral part of Mandurah.  Each house seems to have a water craft of some kind – kayak, canoe, boat or ship!

Venetian Canals

We enjoyed a cruise around the canals and inlet. There are many canal developments.  The Venetian Canals, closest to the sea inlet, won awards for their design.  These were mostly apartment buildings.  However on other canals there were very impressive mansions.  A block of land is now $1.5million and a ‘house’ recently sold for $9.5million.  

The house pictured is quite new, wouldn’t suit most because it only has 2 bedrooms, however one section has a cinema that seats 46 people.  Apparently security firms are pretty busy here as 80% of these houses are usually vacant because they are just holiday homes, used for a short time of the year.  We’re talking about serious money here!  However the locals are also very friendly (except if you are cheering for Queensland in the Tavern during the State of Origin – then they are very vocal.  However by the end of the game they were much quieter and more melancholy.)  QUEENSLANDER!

Fabulous view from Kayak

Thanks to Dennis & Diana Freeman, on our last day in Madurah we had a wonderful time cruising the the canals and inlet using their kayak.  It was another warm and sunny day and it was truly delightful.  We paddled really close to a pod of dolphins but unfortunately they didn't co-operate with the camera person.  We farewelled the Freeman's with a dinner out on our last night - much enjoyed by all!

Kayaking in Mandurah

Alexander Bridge to Margaret River 11/5 to 20/5

Firstly for those who have enquired, the weather has continued to be fabulous - at least up until our last day in Margaret River!  Most days are 22 to 24 degrees and while it can get cooler in the evenings we believe it’s just right for sitting around the campfire, chatting to fellow travellers.  However on our last day in Margaret River the weather changed dramatically.  It was wet and windy and the temperature dropped to a chilly 19 degrees.  This was the same day that Perth experienced a mini tornado so we felt fortunate that we hadn’t moved on yet.

You may have noticed the many townships ending in ‘up’ in this area, eg: Nannup, Manjimup, Dwellingup, Boranup, Cowaramup, etc.  We have learnt that the suffix ‘up’ in the local aboriginal dialect means ‘place of’.  So Cowarumup is the ‘place of the small parrot’; Manjimup was Place of the Manjin , which are edible seeds  (but it will always be place of nightmarish dental experience for Donna) and we were reliably informed that Yallingup is the ‘place of love’ (I kid you not!).  Naturally Mark was keen to stay a few days at Yallingup, but I quickly reminded him that we need to keep moving and check what’s over the next hill.  At this stage Mark is still checking the maps looking for a town called Drinkingup, but I think he’s becoming too well practised for my liking.

Blackwood River

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

We left Manjimup heading for Alexander Bridge which was where we had planned to stay for a night or so.  As the road veered from Bridgetown to Nannup we followed the Blackwood River Valley.  This road featured lush pastures, winding valleys, towering forests and of course the Blackwood River.  This river is the longest river in Western Australia and enters the sea at Hardy Inlet at Augusta.  After choosing a spot near the river at Alexander Bridge camping area, we headed off for the town of Augusta and to visit Cape Leeuwin.  This was to be our last sight of the Southern Ocean on this trip as the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean at Cape Leeuwin, which was named after the Dutch ship, “The Leeuwin” which first sighted in this part of the south west coast back in 1622. 

The lighthouse is usually open for tours but we found it closed for refurbishment on the day that we visited.  This was disappointing but it’s something we’ll have to do on another trip.  Just a short distance from the entry to the lighthouse, we visited the heritage listed 'water wheel` which was used in earlier times to pump fresh water from a spring nearby up to the lighthouse keepers cottage.  This wheel is now entombed in calcium deposits.

Historic Water Wheel

On our way back to Augusta, we also visited Flinders Bay obviously named after Matthew Flinders, even though he didn’t actually land there.  According to historical journals, Flinders sailed past miles out to sea and believed that Cape Leeuwin was an island.  Augusta is a town where nearly every house has a view of the water, either the inlet or the southern ocean. 

Jewel Cave

  We decided to head back via Caves Road and visit Jewel Cave which is the largest limestone 'show cave’ in Western Australia.  Whenever I visit caves I think of the early explorers who entered these cave systems not knowing what they would find and often using very primitive lighting equipment to find their way around. Now that must have been a very eerie experience.  The tour lasted around 45 mins and some of the features were awe inspiring!

Hamelin Bay - Old Jetty

From Alexander Bridge we also visited both Hamelin Bay and Cape Freycinet – stopping at the National Park “Conto Campground” along the way, where who should we run into but Dennis and Diana Freeman who kindly offered us a cuppa.  I would recommend this campsite to anyone, as it is bitumen all the way, with spacious campsites, either sunny or shaded depending on your preference. 

Conto Beach

  Conto Spring enters the ocean at Conto Beach, yet again another very scenic spot.  On the way back to our campsite we stopped to visit a shop that specialises in Christmas decorations!... a bit early I know, but it’s my kind of shop.  Whereas Mark got to visit his favourite tourist spot – a winery.  We both enjoyed Hamelin Bay Winery, both for the vista and the wines on offer.

We left Alexandra Bridge after two days and headed for Margaret River.  We booked into the Big Valley Campground, which is about 10km east of the Margaret River township.  We planned to stay for one week, which will hopefully give us time to sample everything on offer throughout this region.  Obviously, as well as wineries, the Margaret River Region is known for its restaurants, speciality chocolate stores, high end timber galleries, boutique breweries, glass studios. etc. 

Redgate Beach

Margaret River is also known for its surfing beaches. We visited Prevally Beach, which recently hosted the 2011 World Surfing(Surfboard) Championship.  Near Prevally was Gnaralup Beach which is the locals’ favourite swimming beach and Redgate Beach which on the day we visited had amazing surf and many surfers complete with wetsuits, trying their luck. 

History Lesson!

We were also very interested in learning about the history of a ship called the Georgette which sank very close to this beach.  History at school would have been much more interesting if it had included tales such as the one of the Fenian Prisoners who escaped and with the help of an American Ship finally reached freedom in America.

 

 

Ellenbrook Estate

There are also many walks and bike rides in this area.  We enjoyed the heritage walk, to the weir and back to the Lions Park.  At this time of year the Margaret River is at its driest as they are waiting for their usual winter rains.  It’s quite an eye opener seeing all the dry and near dry dams as you drive through the countryside.  One day we drove to Margaret River’s original homestead ‘Ellenbrook’ and walked to the Meekadarrabee Falls, which at this time of year was really just a gentle trickle of water.  The rustic homestead would have been spectacular in its heyday.

Lenton Brae

Grounds & Sculptures Vasse Felix

Mark - Decisions?

Leeuwin Estate

Rose Garden - Voyager Estate

Wineries, there are aplenty.  Mark is in his element tasting and choosing wines that he would like to share with friends and family when we return home.  What has amazed us both is the architecture and landscaped grounds that surround many of these wineries.  For example we heard that Voyager Estate employs 10 gardeners to ensure that their grounds and gardens are always kept in showcase condition.  Did you know that Voyager's wine cellars are underneath their spectacular rose gardens? The wineries here also employ first rate staff particularly in their cellar doors.  We have met some very knowledgeable people who are willing to share their understanding, not only of their own wines, but also of the local region and other attractions.  They are always willing to praise the wines from other wineries and recommend another winery to visit that may appeal to a particular palate.

We also spent a wonderful day at the” Vintage Stomp” at the Voyager Estate.  This was a day designed for the locals to celebrate the 2011 grape harvest.  The day started with a grand parade, led by Bacchus (the God of wine and debauchery).  Each year the stomp attempts to honour a different country who have influenced viticulture and wine growing in the MR district.  This year the stomp celebrated `Germany’ as the international wine growing country.  The host for the day was based on the major male character from the movie ‘Cabaret’.  The primary school choir performed, as did dancers from the local high school.  There was also a special guest performance by Marlene Dietrich, who was unable to hide a very noticeable `Adam’s Apple’ and a very masculine sounding voice.  But the highlight for us was the didgeridoo playing and a troupe of aboriginal dancers.  We waited for the ‘stomp’, which was a competition that awarded $1000 for a local charity.  The entrants included duos from the local council, police, school principals and local radio station who had to stomp grapes into juice.  There were also relays for waiters and tug of war competitions.  It was a memorable day.

Bunker Bay - Geographe

 The Margaret River Region is very diverse and we also enjoyed a drive to Dunsborough and Cape Naturaliste which are situated on Geographe Bay.  The beaches on the day were quite placid, however both Bunker Bay and Meelup Beach are noted surfing beaches.  During this drive we could have visited many a winery, maze, ice-creamery, chocolate shop, providore, olive grove, soap factory, glass factory, brewery, maze, bird sanctuary....in fact the list seems endless.  The problem is that there are not enough hours in the day.  We opted for beaches, a quiet morning tea at Cape Naturaliste, lunch near the beach at Yallingup and then two wineries (Lenton Brae) (Clairault) on the way home.  Luckily we were able to include the chocolate factory on another day of touring.  Each day’s tours were very diverse and interesting, but all included visits to wineries and/or breweries.  Ryan – please look after those wines we’ve sent home, many of which Mark referred to as 'My Precious'!

The Margaret River Region truly has something to interest everyone and we’ve really enjoyed our week in this region.

A different tasting this time

P.S. Mark also asked me to include a reference at the end of the blog to update the boys on the cruiser’s performance.  As mentioned earlier we have now travelled over 10,000 km and our spreadsheet indicates that our average is now at 16.3 litres per 100 km. A very creditable performance we believe.

Shannon to Manjimup 1/5 to 10/5

Shannon Campsite

At Shannon Dam

"Twenty-four"  Parrot at Shannon

After driving from Walpole to Shannon National Park we were extremely happy to find a sunny spot, complete with an outdoor table and a campfire cooking pit which gave us another chance to use our camp oven.  We were pleased to find that the Shannon campsite included several walks and found one walk that directed you through the site of the old Shannon township.  According to the blurb, Shannon had flourished right up until 1973 and had been established as a timber mill town.  The mill finally closed down in the mid 1960’s and then not long after in the early 70’s the Government banned logging completely in this area.  During our walk it was very difficult to actually discern where the townsite had once been, as there weren’t any of the original buildings left, just a few concrete foundations and a flat open space which was the site of the old town oval.  According to the posters this township once included a workers club, general store, service station, school, post office, railway terminal, tennis court, playing fields, etc, yet once the buildings were transferred to another location, nature had quickly taken back the space.  It was sad to see part of our Aussie history disappear in such a short period, but it does make for a lovely national park.  The walks at Shannon were enjoyable and while we were trying to catch sight of a quokka on our walk to the dam (which had provided water for the old township and the mill) unfortunately they remained hidden from us.  We also drove to Windy Harbour and Salmon Beach which, as we’ve come to expect from this region, were quite spectacular.

"Australia House"

From Shannon we stopped over in Northcliffe on our way to Pemberton.  The drive through this region which is noted for its Karri eucalypt forests was very beautiful.  You drive through an avenue of trees, each tall and straight, reaching to the sky.  At Northcliffe we enjoyed seeing sculptures in the forest at the local visitor’s centre.  During a 45min audio tour through the forest walk you come across many varied sculptures.  The artists who were commissioned for this project were each asked to exhibit sculptures which represented the local area and the forests.  As you can see from the attached pictures each sculpture was unique in its message

Forest People

Hands - (Made from Govt Docs, the hands that protect?)

Cat Sculpture - Some of the foods that feral cats eat.  Can you see the cat?

Bound

Sundew

Forest People

Campsite at Big Brook Arboretrum

After our Northcliffe stop we then headed on to Pemberton, another town where the towering karri forests are the highlight  (closely followed by its wine making skills according to Mark). Winding our way down the dirt road to the valley floor we were hopeful that there would be a space to park our van at the bottom, or at least a place to turn around.  Once again our luck held!  We had a wonderful campsite at Big Brook Arboretum and enjoyed campfires here every night of our stay. 

Some of our campfire group

On one night we had couples from Toowoomba, England, Melbourne, Brisbane as well as four backpackers from England, Germany, Sweden and Switzerland around our fire until very late at night.  It was wonderful sharing our stories. 

Not long after arriving at the Big Brook campsite we decided to unpack our bikes, pack our lunch and explore a few of the local gravel roads and walking tracks.  After a couple of kilometres we found a bush track that led down to the Big Brook dam which provides water to the Pemberton township.  The dam is quite large and is a popular spot for local families to visit.  We came across several groups who were walking around the dam and other groups who were fishing for Redfin and Marron. We wanted to try fishing ourselves in the dam but there were several signs warning that fishing wasn’t allowed unless a license had been purchased. A bitumen walking track ran for several kilometres aound this very beautiful location.

 During our trip we’ve met some lovely people and it was great to once again catch up again with Dennis and Diana from Victoria who joined us for lunch at the local pub.  On our last day at Pemberton, they also invited us to accompany them on a kayaking adventure on the Donnelly River.  We found it a really different experience pedalling a kayak and steering with a dial, but this will probably prove to be bad news for our bank balance, as we really enjoyed the experience travelling up and down a pristine waterway in a `Hobie’ kayak.  We could see many times in the future when we’d be able to use one of these kayaks and according to Dennis you have the option to add a motor or sail to propel these small vessels even faster.  It was great to share this experience with the Freemans and we had a great time paddling the kayak almost silently up and down this unspoiled and untouched river.

Another highlight for Mark at Pemberton was climbing the 60 metre high Gloucester Tree.  These giant karris were used in the 1930’s and 1940’s as ingenious ways of spotting fires in such tall forests.  They had lookouts constructed in the crowns.  In those days the fire spotters climbed them using special shoes (crampons) and a climbing belt; today the intrepid climbers use spikes hammered into the tree.  Mark was really excited about this as it was quite a strenuous and exhilarating adventure.  After hearing from a ten year old at our campsite that he had climbed the bicentennial tree up to the 25m tower, I was also keen to have a go.  Unfortunately, even with Mark’s encouragement, I just couldn’t do it.  It’s scary looking back down to the ground each step to locate the spike on which to place your foot.  Obviously he has much better balance than me as on the suspension bridge at the Beedulup Falls he was very comfortable, whereas I was holding on all the time.  This could have been because Mark liked to make it sway sideways!

Off he goes!

Halfway up

Look at the view from here

A tick off the bucket list!

After four days we moved on to Manjimup where we’d booked the car in for its 80,000 service.  An interesting note, on the first night we were the only ones in this caravan park. The caravan park has recently been refurbished, is centrally located and has totally new and modern facilities.  Wonderful hot, clean showers, new washing machines and lots of space – what more can you ask for?  

Timber & Heritage Park

The sawpit

This is another 'Karri Country' town and we visited the Timber and Heritage Park which was only a short stroll from our caravan park.  Many of the exhibits date back to life in a forestry village and by modern standards these pioneers did it tough. Using very simple tools they built homes and created some wonderful furniture.  The exhibits on display range from examples of the logging campsites that were set up in the forests and the various techniques that the loggers used to extract the fallen giants out of the forests for milling. I think I'd prefer to be 'top dog' in the saw pit.  The poor worker underneath had to lay down in the dirt or mud, and push the saw up.  These saws only cut on the upstroke.  What a job!

Where to from here?  We’ll follow the road and see what unfolds.