CAPE LE GRAND NATIONAL PARK 29/3 to 2/4

Driving from Kalgoorlie back down to the coast of Western Australia was interesting.  After we left Kalgoorlie the landscape was very similar....red dirt, coral gums, scrub and salt lakes....until we were about 100 km from Esperance.  Suddenly, even though there were still salt lakes, we had reached arable land.  This region, through the use of superphospates, has been able to grow grain.  Some small towns really make an effort to make travellers feel welcome. 

We had a rest stop at Scadden before we reached the turn off to Cape Le Grand National Park.  The facilities were not only clean, the murals on the outside were extremely well done.  There was also an informative display about the town and its history which was based on the farming and railway workers.

 I must admit the sign 40km before the entrance into the National Park....NO VACANCY – CARAVANS....worried us a little, but undaunted we decided to try our luck anyway.  Thank goodness Lucky Bay lived up to its name.  On our arrival there were two sites free and we set up the van and were warmly welcomed by John & Kathie who had arrived the day before.

Our campsite at Lucky Bay

The sand at Lucky Bay is simply amazing!  As you can see from the attached photos it’s as white as can be and talcum powder soft.  I ventured in for a swim and the water temperature was wonderful.  (Much warmer than Pottsville kids!)  Mark and I also went for a quick walk over the rocks to a lookout.  We passed the Flinders Monument.  After travelling so far from Brisbane, you have to honour this sailor who circumnavigated Australia.  It was such a huge undertaking in his day.

The beautiful Lucky Bay

The View of Lucky Bay from the walk to Thistle Cove

Whistling Rock

More views on walk to Thistle Cove

Mark adding to the cairn

 On our second day in the park, we decided to walk from Lucky Bay to Thistle Cove.  It was supposed to be an ‘easy’ walk, but in parts we found it quite demanding.  Every corner we turned there was an amazing vista.  This part of the world is quite spectacular, the water is turquoise, emerald and sapphire blue, the sand is brilliant white.  We both swam at Thistle Cove and found when you leave the water and walk on the beach, the sand doesn’t stick to your feet like it does in Queensland, and nor was the water as salty.  However that may be because there is fresh water running into the sea at both Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. 

Kangaroo posing for picture at Lucky Bay

 The wallabies and kangaroos in this region come down to the beach to drink.  Some even pose for photos!   

It was one of the nicest days of our trip so far.

If yesterday was ‘nice’ today, (Thursday) was spectacular.  Once again we awoke to blue skies and sunshine.  We decided today was the day to climb Frenchman Peak, so named because the rock atop the peak, looks like a beret.  It certainly was a climb, especially for me!!  However I knew that John and Kathie had climbed it the day before, so I wasn’t giving up.

Frenchman Peak

Mark at start of climb

Mark was very helpful, pointing out the easiest route from one marker to the next.  The view from the top was certainly worth the effort.  The ‘beret’ had a huge cavern with a fantastic view of this pristine area to the south.  Unfortunately, eventually we had to make our way back down        which was quite daunting at times.

Esther, a french visitor took this photo of us both in the cave at the top of Frenchman Peak

The view from the peak.

View of coastline from the cave

We then ventured to Hellfire Bay for morning tea. 

Hellfire Bay

 As we arrived, Cameron, the Head Ranger at Cape Le Grand said that there had been dolphins in the bay yesterday, and when we turned the corner, there they were again.  Once again, pristine blue ocean and chalky white sand...it certainly lives up to its reputation as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.  Believe it or not, even after our 2 hour trek, we decided to head off to Little Hellfire Bay, which we had heard was the best place for snorkelling.  Well would you believe it, not only schools of various kinds of little fish; rock, coral and weed beds with larger fish moving in between; but also six dolphins who were swimming next to and underneath us. 

Hellfire Bay

Little Hellfire Bay

Donna snorkelling at Little Hellfire.  We were the only ones on the beach!

 It was extremely exhilarating and an experience we will always remember!  It’s hard to put into words what it’s like to swim with wild dolphin, who at times were less than a metre from us.  After the trek back to Hellfire Bay & lunch, we then enjoyed the surf at Hellfire Bay.  As we had come to expect, the water was so clear you could see the schools of larger fish in the waves forming close to you.  We hope to be able to repeat this experience tomorrow (except for the climb – as I feel that we’ve been there, done that!)

Unfortunately’ the weather on the Friday was overcast, cloudy and very windy; so we drove 120km to the Duke of Orleans Bay, where we ran into people who had also camped beside us at Lucky Bay.  We both agreed that the Duke wasn’t as breathtaking as Cape Le Grand, but we enjoyed the company and even went on a short 4WD track that led to a river.  (Hope the scratches in the cruiser will polish out!).  Then as the sun had returned we quickly headed back to Hellfire Bay for a swim.  At least, Mark swam; the rest of us found the water too cool today. 

Cape Le Grand Beach

On the Saturday morning we drove to Cape Le Grand Beach, from which you can drive along the compressed sand to Esperance.  Once again the pristine water and clean white sand was impressive.  There was a sailing regatta today from Esperance to Lucky Bay and it was interesting to watch the boats rounding the finishing buoy in gale force winds.

Regatta in Lucky Bay

John & Kathie collecting camping fees

Tomorrow we head for Esperance and leave John and Kathy at Lucky Bay Campground.  They have volunteered to be Camp Hosts at Lucky Bay and plan to stay in this wonderful place until at least Easter.  Their duties include collecting the fees for overnight stays ($9 per person).  Would you believe that there are websites explaining to people how to get out of paying the fees.  I think that the clean toilets, solar showers, wonderful walking tracks and AMAZING beaches are worth at the very least $9 a day. 

 

I hope everyone following this blog gets to see this part of Australia sometime.

Farewell Lucky Bay