We were so looking forward to visiting Karajini, the second largest national park in Western Australia. Not only had Jeff & Michelle Noonan told us a lot about it, but John & Kathie had also enjoyed their stay here.
On the way from Tom Price, we had to pull right off the road so that two wide load vehicles could move on down the highway, the first was a brand new mining vehicle, probably worth a few million dollars. This occurred several times as we travelled these highways. It seems that mining equipment is more often being moved down highways than in use in the actual mines. We were also both keen to add an orange flag to our vehicle because it seems this is the preferred accessory in the area.
The thick cloud covering some of the Hammersley Range was quite an eerie sight as we neared Karajini.
On arrival at Dales Campground at Karajini, we were allocated a camping spot in the Dingo Loop. There are over 140 campsites at Dales, all are located in circular loops. There are plenty of clean toilets and centrally located gas barbecues, cooking rings and tables. It’s an extremely well set up camp – great value at $10 a night. We spotted our first dingo on the drive into Karajini and we had been warned not to leave our shoes outside at night or they’ll be chewed by the morning. It has been quite exciting to set up our campsite and know that we won’t be moving for seven days – a good break from travelling.
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Termite Mound |
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Snappy Gum |
When you first drive in, it is hard to believe in all this relatively flat country there is something spectacular hidden away. That’s because instead of creating mountains, here the water has etched deep gorges in a landscape of spinifex and white snappy gums. The landscape is dotted with huge termite mounds and there are also rock piles everywhere, some of which have been built by the local pebble mouse. This landscape has taken more than two billion years to create and it has definitely left an imprint on our minds, with its ever-changing scenery of deep red rock, sheer cliffs and spinifex-clad rolling hills.
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Threeways Dales Gorge |
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Dales Canyon (Can you see Donna? Hint Pink Shirt) |
We went to
Dales Gorge first as it was the closest to our campground. In Dales Gorge, apart from spectacular views of the craggy ochre-coloured rock faces, the highlights are Circular Pool, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. We also walked the Gorge Rim Trail which offers stupendous views into the gorge.
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Fern Pool | | | | |
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Mark & Donna in Fern Pool |
From there we followed a steep descent into Dales Gorge where we were well rewarded with a swim at the tranquil swimming hole, Fern Pool.
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Fortescue Falls from the Gorge |
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Fortescue Falls from Rim of Gorge |
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Donna in Caitlyn Pose |
We also clambered down the rocks to the bottom of Fortescue Falls and enjoyed another swim at the bottom of this permanently flowing waterfall. The rockface down to the pool was usually crowded with people eager to have a swim or to watch others.
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View into Circular Pool |
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Mark in Circular Pool - Do you think the water is cold? |
On other days we returned and walked along the canyon floor to Circular Pool. This pool is usually in shade and so the water temperature is not as comfortable as in Fortescue and Fern Pool.
The fern-lined crystal clear pool, trickling waterfall and sheer rock face backdrop made Circular Pool sublimely beautiful. With all this swimming we were hoping that the ochre-red colour would be removed from our feet – but definitely not yet!
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Green Pool (Dales Canyon) |
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Blue Pool (Dales Canyon) |
We've enjoyed returning to Dales Gorge many times over our week in Karajini and it has been a highlight of our trip so far.
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Canyon Face
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The colours of the cliffs here are very difficult to describe. There are so many layers of different colour that at times the cliff walls look like banded agate. There are also layers of white and blue. It was possible to see the fibres of asbestos in some of the blue layers probably because Karajini is not far from Wittenoon, which was an asbestos mine – closed because of the deaths occurring from the mining of this mineral.
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Asbestos Fibres |
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We also travelled to the other gorges and enjoyed their spectacular scenery and quite challenging walks. The view over the junction of the three gorges at Oxer Lookout was particularly breathtaking.
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View from Oxer Junction |
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View into Hancock Gorge |
However when we climbed down into Hancock Gorge and started wading through the water and spider walking along the sides of the cliff face our hearts were really thumping!
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Hancock Gorge | | |
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Donna wading Hancock |
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Mark ready to Spider Walk |
From there we moved on to Weano Gorge. Parts of this gorge were spectacular especially when the gorge narrows and you’re wading through water with cliff faces a hundred metres high on either side of you. Then you reach a section that can only be accessed by using a handrail and balancing your legs against the canyon walls while walking backwards as it’s too slippery and steep to go forwards. Mark ventured this far, however I chickened out as someone had to keep the camera dry (or that was my excuse)
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Weano Gorge |
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Weano Canyon (How did we get through?) |
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Mark Ready for Handrail Pool |
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Handrail Pool | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
In Kalamina Gorge we encountered our first snake in this area. The olive pythons enjoy the water in Karajini and can grow to quite an impressive size. I was glad we only met a baby. Each gorge is different, but I have to admit our favourite was Dales and we enjoyed three days exploring and swimming in this gorge.
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Snake in Kalamina Gorge |
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Small Waterfall in Kalamina Gorge |
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Donna trekking Kalamina Gorge |
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Kalamina Gorge | | | | | | | |
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The road to the other gorges is due to be graded in two weeks time, just after the school holidays. We think it is well overdue as we met three separate groups of people who suffered punctured (or shredded) tyres. One of them lost two tyres on a Landcruiser and as they had driven from Tom Price to visit the gorges for the day, they had a 200 km round trip to try and get tyres repaired on a
Sunday. Luckily they were travelling with another friend and they used their vehicle to return to Tom Price. It makes it a very expensive day out doesn’t it?
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"The snake was this big!" |
We have been extremely fortunate in the weather while we’ve been at Karajini. We’ve enjoyed clear blue skies and very warm days with the temperature reaching 29 degrees, the nights however have been very crisp – even used the hot water bottles a few nights!
Karajini is a very special place and we hope everyone reading this blog gets a chance to see it one day!
Sounds like they have added a few extra loops at Dales camp ground. Terrible place, hey.
ReplyDeleteForget the orange flag if your heading for Port Hedland - go straight for the orange flashing light.
Hi Jeff:
ReplyDeleteWe both thought that Dales Gorge was fantastic. We kept going back and we kept finding new and different aspects each time we walked the gorge. We also liked Weano & Hancock Gorges but we couldn't go to Hammersely Gorge as it had been closed since April for safety upgrades. Never seen so many Toyotas complete with Organge Flags and so many orange shirts with silver trim. Someone's making a lot of money supplying these items to these miners.
Cheers
Mark