Exmouth and Cape Range National Park 6/8 to 18/8

Array of Antennas and Transmitters

Info about Attennas

 After arriving in Exmouth we stocked up with fuel, food and alcohol before setting out to explore the local area.  We were quite interested to drive past the Learmonth Airforce Base on our way into Exmouth and then as we drove to the tip of the Marat Peninsula there was also a Naval Base – The Harold E Holt Base for Naval Communication which had an array of antennas and transmitters that covered an overall diameter of 2.5km.  The Naval base was quite large and well-guarded. The facility included its own jetty and ships.  We also witnessed one of the large planes from the Learmonth airbase carrying out training manoeuvres in close proximity to the Ningaloo Reef.

Aircraft Manoevres

Bundegi Beach Exmouth

SS Mildura Wreck

We stopped at Bundegi Beach which was very popular on the sunny Sunday that we visited and then sighted the wreck of the SS Mildura at the tip of the Peninsula.  From there we drove to the west side of the peninsula to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse where the views of the beaches south towards Cape Range National Park whetted our appetite for the upcoming 9 days we have booked to stay at the Tulki Beach campsite.  This is the first time that on-line booking for this national park has been trialled and it is set to continue next year as well.  Apparently May and June next year is almost fully booked, so if anyone is intending to head this way in 2012 I would recommend that you seriously consider booking in advance.  If not you turn up at the gate and wait until there is a vacancy.  Yesterday there were 10 vans lined up and spaces for 8, however some days there are no vacancies.

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse

 

Donna at Lighthouse

When we arrived at Tulki Beach in Cape Range,  we  were very warmly welcomed by Rob, our camp host.  He’s so friendly – arranges a book exchange, afternoon drinks & lets us all know what’s happening locally , as well as ensuring the toilets are kept clean, etc.  John and Kathie had obviously trained him well.  Once we were set up we took off to the beach, which is just over the sand dunes and met up with some of the locals in the water.  (Two reef sharks, a shovelnose shark and many, many, huge stingrays).  The stingrays seemed to quite resent the fact that we wanted to swim in their sandy spot and were quite slow to move on.  Mark kept referring to this area as Vermin Beach, but we learnt later that it was a very low tide that day and these critters were scouring the bottom looking for a feed.  When we were snorkelling it was amazing to see the spots on the stingrays.  I'd never realized that they were so colourful.

Happy Hour Group

Our Entertainers

 On our first evening at Tulki camp we met some very interesting people at’ happy hour’.  One of the stories was told by Jim, an American who commutes between Perth and Houston.  Jim is engaged by Origin as a Project Manager for the design, installation and commissioning of offshore oil and gas rigs in W.A as well as across the world . Jim shared several stories with us on the night, but I really enjoyed the story where he and several workers ended up being stranded in the North Sea in the middle of the night without any lights or even rescuers close at hand.  Many of his stories were spellbinding and I was amazed when he told the group that during one of his many rescues, he was upset and cranky when that the ship wouldn’t light up the immediate area near the rescue location, which he felt would have sped up the recovery process.  Jim explained that he was to learn later when he was safely on board, that the ship’s captain had asked for the bright lights to be moved away from the men in the water, in order to try and distract the large sharks who were circling them probably checking them out as being a take away meal. 

Also at ‘Happy Hour’ were two other ex-teachers who had worked in the UK, USA and in WA – it made for a very enjoyable evening.  On another evening we were warmly entertained by Conrad (ukulele) and his 9 year old son, Jarrah (Cornet).  Everyone has a ball talking and sharing a few cold drinks and we credit Rob our Camp Host as being the catalyst for creating a great atmosphere which encourages everyone to join in and fully enjoy their holiday break.

Mandu Mandu Gorge

Can You Spot the Wallabies?

Yes, Here We Are!

 During our stay we also walked through Mandu Mandu Gorge, a gorge that has been carved by water, but it certainly looks like a long time since it’s seen significant water.  The climb up and down the canyon walls was certainly worthwhile, particularly when you were able to look over the range towards Ningaloo Reef.  Eagle-eyed Mark also spotted the small rock wallabies, who were carefully camouflaged in crevices in the rocks.  We saw three altogether.  They must be very agile creatures to be able to live on the tiny crevices in these rock walls. 

Iridescent Orchid

At one section there was a patch of iridescent yellow high above the canyon floor and we couldn’t quite make out what it was, but took a photo anyway, and on return to our campsite discovered that it was an orchid.  The wildflowers in this region are starting to bloom.  There are many Sturt Desert Peas along the roadside as well as some bluebells, yellow everlastings and in some areas a sea of purple flowers.

Wildflowers at Cape Range

Sturt Desert Pea

Turquoise Bay

Donna Snorkelling at Turquoise Bay

After our canyon walk we were very keen to visit Turquoise Bay and the Drift.  These beaches are quite stunning and excellent for both swimming and snorkelling.  The water clarity is amazing.  As you approach the shoreline you can see numerous large dart, swimming almost on top of the bathers.  The coral reef is quite close to the shore and you can drift with the current over the coral.  Amazing aquatic life abounds.  Our favourites are the Wrasse – which are extremely colourful – green, purple, orange – and they also have big choppers for munching on the coral. We both really enjoyed snorkelling and looked forward to seeing different fish, coral and starfish every day.

One of the Colourful Starfish on the Reef

Wonderful Fish and Coral at Ningaloo Reef

Oyster Stacks Snorkelling Area

Mark Snorkelling Near Coral Bommie

At high tide on another day we snorkelled at Oyster Stacks.  The coral bommies at Oyster Stacks  are only accessible when the tide is higher than 1.2m.  The careful clambering over the rocks to snorkel with the strong current was extremely worthwhile once we saw the schools of huge fish and colourful corals and other sea animals – especially around the bommies.  The whale watching at Oyster Stacks was also a highlight.  There was a pod of whales splashing about just past the reef.  Wonderful to watch!

Whales at Play near Ningaloo Reef

On another day we drove a short distance up the road to snorkel at Lakeside beach.  This was once again a spectacular setting; complete with a variety of large fish and other sea creatures including large sting rays, turtles and some excellent coral growths.  Yet again we arrived at high tide and found that a strong current was sweeping quickly across the lagoon at a rate of knots that made for a rather quick journey over the many coral platforms.  We found that we were able to hover over the large schools of fish for several minutes but you really had to work hard as the current was strong and you were quite tired after you returned to the beach.

Coral at Lakeside (One Snorkeller Out There)

 Of course, with all these fish around we did set off on a few fishing expeditions.  Armed with local knowledge we ensured that we didn’t use sinkers and our bait was mulies (W.A Pilchards).  Our target was the spangled emperor, a reef fish, that abounds in this area.  Mark was the successful fisherman on the first day, catching three good sized emperor (min size = 41 cm) , but of course the one that got away was the biggest!  Watching from nearby, I was amazed at how much his small rod was bent over as he manoeuvred the fish into the beach.  From my perspective, they were extremely tasty!  On another fairly overcast day, we went fishing and Mark was once again successful, this time bagging a Golden Trevally, as you can see from the photo, the fish didn’t give up without a fight.

What A Fight!

Success - Spangled Emperor

 On another day in Cape Range we travelled to Yardie Creek where we had a very informative boat trip through the gorge, captained by Tory, one of the rangers.  It was interesting that Yardie actually means ‘creek’.  At present sea water enters the creek from the west, but this will be cut off later in the season, when the sand dune covers the entrance.  Water from the east also enters the creek, through an aquifer on the Range.  We were fortunate to see some more black footed rock wallabies (which have now been declared endangered), as  at last count there were 36 wallabies in the park; however in the picture we took of one you’ll see some little feet poking from a pouch, so we think we can safely add another to that number!  There were also many birds and bird nests, one which was first described in the 1890;s is still in use today.

Yardie Gorge

Egrets Nest at Yardie Gorge

Black Footed Rock Wallaby - Yardie Gorge

PS:  During our short stay at Cape Range, a campground host position suddenly became available elsewhere in the park and we were approached and asked if we would like an opportunity to volunteer in this role until the end of August.  We declined as we’re keen to keep moving north, but we reinforced that John & Kathie might be willing to accept this vacancy.  To cut a long story short, John & Kathie have now accepted the hosting position and have taken up residence at Osprey campsite.  We have caught up with them a couple of times and they look happy and contented back in the warmth at Ningaloo Reef – especially now that they can access their telephone and television whenever they desire (thanks to the purchase of a satellite dish and telephone aerial and antenna) and the purchase of a washing machine.  These are such luxuries for this part of the world and Mark is starting to weaken as I apply pressure to get him to relax his hold on his wallet, so we can purchase an outside telephone aerial to boost our phones’ reception, particularly as we move further north into the remote parts of this state.

Our Campsite at Tulki Beach

 We really enjoyed our time at Tulki Beach Camp - Cape Range National Park.  It is a wonderful part of the world that we hope to return to at some stage.