Broome to Kununurra 15/9 to 23/9

Prison Tree Derby

Driving Along Derby Jetty

After leaving Broome we headed to Derby.  We noticed that the rivers we crossed on the way had increasingly more water than those further south.  Derby is noted for having very large tides (up to 12m at times) and a purpose-built jetty that was specifically designed to cope with this huge influx of water.  What we saw was not what we’d expected.  We had  both envisioned a jetty that went straight out into a bay, not the semi-circular jetty that we could drive the caravan quite comfortably around.  The other attractions in Derby include a boab tree that reputedly was once used to hold aborigines after they had been captured to work in the pearling industry.  The Prison Boab Tree was but one of many impressive boabs along the roadside.  We bought a seed engraved by one of the local aborigines in Derby, many of whom were waiting very patiently for the local bottle shop to open.  The other ‘attraction’ was a large concrete watering trough at the Myal Bore, used to water cattle when they were brought into Derby for processing.

Campsite at Windjana

 

We decided not to stay in Derby overnight and we then headed out along the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge.  Before leaving Broome we’d been assured by a few travellers who had visited recently that the road was quite OK at present to take our caravan into the gorge.  Well, our caravan arrived safely, however David and Shirley, who are travelling with us at present, opened their caravan to find their fridge door spreadeagled on the caravan floor and the floor awash with spilt milk, cream, pickles, salad dressings etc....not happy Jan!  However the campsite at Windjana was very comfortable.  They even had flushing toilets and the solar showers at the end of the day were very welcome! 

Bower Bird

Am I Pretty Enough?

In our campsite we watched with amusement one particular bird.  While it definitely could fly it mainly hopped along the ground collecting white stones.  After following its path Mark came upon the bower and was fortunate to see the bower bird making a display to attract the female.  It’s such a drab little bird until it is trying to attract a mate.  Typical male it then shows off as much as it can to entice a female!
If the male is attractive enough to the female mating occurs in the bower.  Typically... then the female lays eggs in a nest and looks after them by herself.

Even in Windjana the Washing Gets Done!

Windjana Gorge is quite spectacular and we sighted our first freshwater crocodiles while walking into the gorge.  The largest we saw was about 2 metres long, but they can grow up to 3 metres.  I decided I definitely didn’t want to swim!  Walking through this gorge with cliff faces so high above you it is difficult to believe that these walls are the remains of a Devonian Coral Reef which was created over 360 million years ago.  Today it’s an oasis of green in a very arid environment.  During the wet it must be a wondrous sight.

Donna & Freshies

Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge

Light Entering Tunnel Cave

We also drove to Tunnel Creek which has been another highlight for both of us.  The road into Tunnel Creek was quite corregated with many washouts and once again we met up with unfortunate fellow travellers who were trying to repair their punctured tyres.  The creek itself however was well worth the drive.  The experience of making our way through icy cold water (above waist high at times) in the pitch black of a cave was quite eerie.  It was fitting perhaps that our torch decided to use the last of its battery just as we started off...definitely added to the atmosphere.  The sheer size of the caverns cut out by water was awesome.

One of the Caverns in Tunnel Creek

David and Shirley Following Mark Into Tunnel

There Was Light at the End of the Tunnel

Interesting Limestone Formations

It was in Tunnel Creek that Jandamurra (an aboriginal freedom fighter) and his followers hid from the police for three years.  He had helped release aborigines who had been taken captive, in the process a policeman was shot.  He also shot and killed three cattlemen at Windjana Gorge.  After his three years of hiding he was shot at the entrance to Tunnel Creek by an Aboriginal police tracker.  Regardless of its history, we found Tunnel Creek an experience to remember.

At Exit - How High Did the Water Get?

After leaving Windjana Gorge we retraced our steps to Derby and then back to the Savannah Way stopping enroute to Fitzroy Crossing at an overnight stop at Ellendale.  This rest stop is on a ridge overlooking a plain that stretches to the horizon.  The good news for us was that we had some radio reception, the bad news was that we were in WA and the ABC ignored the Wallabies Vs Ireland Game and the Broncos Vs St George.  They just mentioned the results at the end of the West Coast Game.  (By the way West Coast won, Broncos won, Wallabies...to quote Rob, disgraceful!)

Fitzroy River

Fitzroy Crossing was our next stop, where we stayed at the Lodge.  This is a huge park with great amenities and a swimming pool which is very welcome in the afternoons.  Council workers are still busy repairing the bridge across the Fitzroy River.  After the river flooded in March/April this year the bridge was not safe for traffic which necessitated road trains having to travel many more thousands of kilometres down the middle and across the Nullarbor.  Travelling to Geike Gorge we took the old road and crossed the Fitzroy River at the original crossing and were fortunate to see two Brolgas dancing.

Brolgas at Fitzroy Crossing

Tom Cruiser at Fitzroy Crossing

Watching Shirley & David at Crossing

Geike Gorge

The gorge itself was quite interesting.  It is another section of the same limestone reef we saw at Windjana.  We went on the Department of Conservation boat ride and sighted a lot of wildlife in the water and on the shoreline (many species of birds, turtles and crocs). I’m getting quite used to these freshwater crocs now.  The largest we’ve seen is about 3 metres, which is about how long they can grow.

Another Day, Another Croc!

Freshwater Turtle

We also drove to the Crossing Inn, which was built in 1897 and is still on its original site.  The local District High School has painted murals on the exterior walls of the Inn.  There is also an art gallery at the Inn at present.  Most of the pictures looked as though they had been painted by the local primary school.  (Didn't buy any)

Group Around Fire at Mary Pool

Russian Jack Statue

Police Trackers Hut

Our next stop was at a freestay that had been recommended by quite a few fellow travellers – Mary Pool on the Mary River.  Even though the days are getting quite warm (up to 36 degrees at present ) it gets cool at night and we enjoyed once again sharing a fire with fellow travellers, and cooking on an open fire.  From there we headed towards Halls Creek.  There was a statue there dedicated to Russian Jack.  According to legend, he had pushed an injured friend in a bush wheelbarrow 300 km over a track to get medical attention.  An example of true mateship!  The other historical feature I found interesting was the Police Tracker's Hut. This housed aboriginal trackers and their wives - not sure that I would like to have lived there.  While most of Halls Creek was very run down the students of the local high school have created some murals along the main street.  It's great to see schools trying to create more community spirit.

Halls Creek Mural

Afternoon Group At Spring Creek

From there we headed to another freestay, Spring Creek, which is close to the entrance of Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles),  It was quite pleasant to walk along this freshwater stream or to sit and chat under the shady trees. 

Kapok Tree

Over the last few days we’ve passed many trees and bushes covered in bright yellow flowers.  It is believed that this tree, the kapok, was introduced to Australia by Afghan Cameleers who used kapok saddles, and eventually seeds were spread throughout Australia and are very prevalent here in the Kimberleys.  

Purnululu National Park

Tom Cruiser is Wonderful!

 With David and Shirley accompanying us we all left bright and early to drive into Purnululu National Park which, like the Ningaloo Reef is a World Heritage Area.  The drive itself was quite an experience.   While not as rough as the road into Cape Levique, it was a much longer drive – the round trip was over 200km.  We experienced not just corrugations but also bulldust, stony dry creek crossings, as well as a dozen creek crossingscomplete with water that came up above the running board of Tom Cruiser.  Was it worth it?  Yes, definitely.

'Beehive' Domes of Bungle Bungles

Cathedral Gorge

 We walked to Cathedral Gorge, from which the striped ‘beehive’ structures of the bungles were very pronounced.  Cathedral Gorge itself, must be quite spectacular when the waterfall is flowing.  There are still pools of water, but most of the water course was dry.  This natural amphitheatre is created between towering cliffs and honeycomb rocks.  From there we did the ‘Dome’ walk which was a winding walk around the banded domes ending in another smaller amphitheatre.

On Walk to Cathedral Gorge

Pathway to Echidna Chasm

On the southern end of the Bungles was Echidna Chasm.  This is a spectacular 200 metre chasm with wonderful changes of colour depending on the light.  As we walked along the dry creek bed to the chasm it was refreshing to be able to walk in the shade of livistona palms which grow in this chasm.  As you enter the chasm it is very eerie with walls of rock stretch so high above you, makes you feel very insignificant, and at times there were rocks balancing precariously above.  We also spotted a small snake (Olive Python???) which was trying desperately to find a niche in the rock to escape from our crunching footsteps.

Echidna Chasm

High Walls of Stone - Echidna Chasm

Python Echidna Chasm

 After the two hour drive back to our campsite at Spring Creek, Mark really savoured his beers after a spectacular outing.  Next we head to Kununurra where enjoying fresh fruit and vegetables will be a priority for everyone.

Broome 4/9 to 14/9

We arrived in Broome much earlier than planned, but have both agreed that this was a fortuitive move as there is just so much to see in this town.  Also we are both much happier now, as Donna is finally able to stand upright and is moving pain free, thanks to a couple of visits to a physio and finally a chiropractor.

Pearl Buttons and Shells

Broome has so much to offer and we’d like to share some of our special moments from the 10 days that we spent in this picturesque place.

ITS HISTORY

Pearl Lugger

Broome values and promotes its pearling history and doesn’t shy away from the negatives of the past.  We really enjoyed the Pearl Lugger Tour and exhibit and learning about the origins of the mother of pearl industry; firstly based in Cossack and later on in Broome.

 The pearl shells were initially collected for the manufacture of buttons for the clothing industry.  The local aborigines at first were willing to help collect the pearl shell from nearby 80 Mile Beach, but as the shells close to shore were over-farmed they were then forced to collect shells from deeper and deeper waters and became very reluctant to collect mother of pearl.

Faced with labour problems, the Pearling Masters turned to `Blackbirding' as the primary means to obtain aboriginal labour to dive and collect the valuable pearl shells.  Aboriginal men, women and children were considered expendable and were forced to dive or suffer the consequences.  If they returned to the boats without any pearl shell, they had to bring up a handful of sand and / or seaweed to prove they’d reached the bottom otherwise they were not allowed back into the boats.  Many died from shark attacks, or the bends, or were stranded on islands far from the mainland.

Diving Equipment

Hard Hat Diver Statue

Thankfully, with the arrival of deep diving technology used by the Japanese Divers the pearling industry was revolutionised.  These helmeted and weighted divers were attached to the pearling luggers by air tubes and communicated with those above, by pulling on ropes. We were amazed at the layers of clothing and the amount of weight these divers needed to wear so they could stay underwater for long periods.  Even though many divers still got the bends there was much less death.  Pearl diving didn’t change very much until the mid 1970’s, when suddenly a new breed of diver started experimenting with light weight wetsuits and aqualungs which were used by the Abalone divers and allowed these modern day pearl divers to collect more shells with a reduced length of time under water.

Nowadays `Mother of Pearl’ is still used to make items such as Automotive Paint or in make-up, both shiny and / or reflective.  The industry today in Broome is mainly based on culturing South Sea Pearls, with the mother of pearl becoming a by-product.  However in days gone by, mother of pearl made the Pearl Barons extremely rich.  In Broome they liked to display their wealth by always wearing white linen suits, white shirts and shoes.  As you can imagine, due to the red dust and soil in this region, many of these Pearl Barons needed to change their clothes regularly.  It was reported that they had a wardrobe of around 200 white linen suits to ensure they were always pristine.  According to the locals, the Barons would often have man servants following them around town with replacement suits and shoes, so they always maintained their immaculate demeanour.  Guess where they had their white suits laundered........SINGAPORE!  Then, as now, Broome depended on bore water and to ensure that their whites weren’t stained by the bore water, every two or three weeks a laundry ship would arrive at Broome Harbour to collect the next laundry parcel.  Can you believe it?

Sun Pictures

We also experienced a blast from the past when we went to the Sun Pictures which is the world's oldest operating open-air picture garden.  We felt it added to the atmosphere of the movie "Red Dog" to see this Aussie movie about the Pilbara Wanderer in such a theatre.  The theatre reportedly holds around 500 patrons and  it was packed on the night we saw "Red Dog".  At $12.00 each per ticket, not a bad night's return for the owners.

THE BEACHES

Cable Beach

The Camels on Cable Beach

Getting Ready For Sunset

Cocktail Time

No trip to Broome would be complete without visiting iconic Cable Beach.  Whether you visit during the day for a swim or in the afternoon and evening to watch the spectacular Broome sunset we’re very confident you’d be impressed!  We’ve had a wonderful time in the late afternoon and early evening after driving our car down to the beach and enjoying a drink or a bbq with friends while watching the camels and the glorious sunset.  We also enjoyed visiting the Sunset Bar at Cable Beach Resort to have drinks on the balcony while watching the sun set.  (I can recommend the “Postcards from Broome” cocktail,  simply....delicious!)

Town Beach and Roebuck Bay

Staircase to the Moon

Town Beach is ideal for watching the’ Staircase to the Moon’ when the full moon rises over Roebuck Bay. 

Entrance Point from Natures Window

Roebuck Bay from the Port

We also visited Entrance Beach and the Port.  We were quite surprised at how small the port actually is – only one boat can unload its cargo at a time.  Seems downright medieval for this part of the world!

 THE SCENERY

Donna at Gantheaume Point

The colours of Broome are spectacular.  The contrast of the flowers, boab trees, palm trees, red cliffs and turquoise sea is amazing.  At Gantheaume Point we went to the pindan rocks to see dinosaur footsteps  and Anastasia’s pool created in these red cliffs. We also like the way the town is using sculptures and shaded areas to beautify public areas.

FESTIVAL OF THE PEARL

Sammi the Dragon

Dance Troup

We are lucky that in the time we’re in Broome we get to experience both the Staircase to the Moon and the annual Shinju Matsuri (Festival of the Pearl).  This festival has a Japanese name however a traditional Chinese dragon (Sammi) opens the festival which celebrates Broome’s colourful pearling history.  It seemed that most of the town folk came out to celebrate the festival.   There was also a float parade in the afternoon in which many businesses and public organisations participated and a Mardi Gras in the evening featuring local dance schools and bands. On the evening of the full moon there was also a Light Show as part of Shinju Matsuri.  The involvement of the local schools in this was amazing.  A choir comprising members of all the local schools as well as the community choir sang during the parade of lights.  The lights themselves were made by year seven students, and they were proudly carrying them home after the show finished.  

Light Festival

Light Festival

 

 
DAMPIER PENINSULA

Sacred Heart Church Beagle Bay

Shell Altar

We went to Cape Leveque and visited the Beagle Bay Aboriginal Community and the Sacred Heart Church.  This was originally established by the French Trappist Monks in 1890.  They built a bush timber and paperbark church, learnt the local Nyul Nyul language and taught in the local language.  When they returned to France the German Palottine Missionaries took over the settlement.  They commenced work on this church with the assistance of locals while under house arrest during World War I.  It was made of hand formed clay bricks that were fired in local kilns.  They made lime by crushing and burning shell and used this for mortar and plaster.  They decorated the church with mother of pearl, cowries and other shells gathered from local beaches in the area.  It is a stunning Church that has been well restored. 

 

The community at Beagle Bay is currently undergoing a major refurbishment.  All the mission homes are being upgraded.  Apparently in the wet season, when local indiginous folk return from water logged areas of the Kimberley, there can be up to 20 people living in each of these houses.

Tidal Flow at One Arm Point

We also visited an aquaculture centre at One Arm Point also run by a local aboriginal community.  They are concentrating on cultivating the Trochus shell, which has a thicker and stronger nacre (mother of pearl) content than pearl shell.  It is used by all the high class fashion houses for their up market buttons.  They are also studying other sea life and supplying aquariums with interesting animals.  Tides in this area flow extremely quickly through the Buccaneer Archipelago making it extremely dangerous for boating.

Cygnet Bay

Donna's Pearl!

A highlight for us (especially Donna) was visiting Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm.  This is the oldest Australian owned Pearl Farm and has operated since 1946.  They grow the largest pearls in the world at Cygnet Bay and at present have 400,000 oyster shells, half of which are growing cultured South Sea Pearls.  The other half are immature shells, most of which they grow from about the size of a 20c piece.  Yes !!!@!!   I bought a pearl.

Western Beach

Eastern Beach

We also visited Cape Leveque.  This land is now under native title and we were made very welcome at the visitors centre.  We drove to the Eastern Beach first, but the wind virtually drove us from there to the Western Beach (Sunset Beach).  This is famous for the pindan cliffs which are the richest red colour and they were spectacular during the sun set.  Perhaps you’ve noted my next vehicle in the sunset picture we took....mmmm.....will have to take helicopter flying lessons.

Pindan Cliffs

Sunset & Donna's New "Dinghy"

There have also been a few other things that we found quite surprising in Broome. For example, the regional prison is located right in the centre of town.  It's right opposite the Courthouse Gardens where the markets are held every weekend.  There is also a branch of Notre Dame University in Broome. We are also surprised and appalled that anyone would contemplate building a huge gas refinery, jetty and port facility in this pristine part of Australia.  None of the locals speak positively about the proposed Woodside Venture and are hopeful that the Federal Government will scrap it.

As you can see we've had a fabulous time exploring Broome, but its time to move on so we can experience the nothern parts of W.A., in particular the Kimberley region .  Our next stop is Derby and then we'll travel a couple of hundred kilometres along the Gibb River Road so we can spend some time in both Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek.