Broome to Kununurra 15/9 to 23/9

Prison Tree Derby

Driving Along Derby Jetty

After leaving Broome we headed to Derby.  We noticed that the rivers we crossed on the way had increasingly more water than those further south.  Derby is noted for having very large tides (up to 12m at times) and a purpose-built jetty that was specifically designed to cope with this huge influx of water.  What we saw was not what we’d expected.  We had  both envisioned a jetty that went straight out into a bay, not the semi-circular jetty that we could drive the caravan quite comfortably around.  The other attractions in Derby include a boab tree that reputedly was once used to hold aborigines after they had been captured to work in the pearling industry.  The Prison Boab Tree was but one of many impressive boabs along the roadside.  We bought a seed engraved by one of the local aborigines in Derby, many of whom were waiting very patiently for the local bottle shop to open.  The other ‘attraction’ was a large concrete watering trough at the Myal Bore, used to water cattle when they were brought into Derby for processing.

Campsite at Windjana

 

We decided not to stay in Derby overnight and we then headed out along the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge.  Before leaving Broome we’d been assured by a few travellers who had visited recently that the road was quite OK at present to take our caravan into the gorge.  Well, our caravan arrived safely, however David and Shirley, who are travelling with us at present, opened their caravan to find their fridge door spreadeagled on the caravan floor and the floor awash with spilt milk, cream, pickles, salad dressings etc....not happy Jan!  However the campsite at Windjana was very comfortable.  They even had flushing toilets and the solar showers at the end of the day were very welcome! 

Bower Bird

Am I Pretty Enough?

In our campsite we watched with amusement one particular bird.  While it definitely could fly it mainly hopped along the ground collecting white stones.  After following its path Mark came upon the bower and was fortunate to see the bower bird making a display to attract the female.  It’s such a drab little bird until it is trying to attract a mate.  Typical male it then shows off as much as it can to entice a female!
If the male is attractive enough to the female mating occurs in the bower.  Typically... then the female lays eggs in a nest and looks after them by herself.

Even in Windjana the Washing Gets Done!

Windjana Gorge is quite spectacular and we sighted our first freshwater crocodiles while walking into the gorge.  The largest we saw was about 2 metres long, but they can grow up to 3 metres.  I decided I definitely didn’t want to swim!  Walking through this gorge with cliff faces so high above you it is difficult to believe that these walls are the remains of a Devonian Coral Reef which was created over 360 million years ago.  Today it’s an oasis of green in a very arid environment.  During the wet it must be a wondrous sight.

Donna & Freshies

Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge

Light Entering Tunnel Cave

We also drove to Tunnel Creek which has been another highlight for both of us.  The road into Tunnel Creek was quite corregated with many washouts and once again we met up with unfortunate fellow travellers who were trying to repair their punctured tyres.  The creek itself however was well worth the drive.  The experience of making our way through icy cold water (above waist high at times) in the pitch black of a cave was quite eerie.  It was fitting perhaps that our torch decided to use the last of its battery just as we started off...definitely added to the atmosphere.  The sheer size of the caverns cut out by water was awesome.

One of the Caverns in Tunnel Creek

David and Shirley Following Mark Into Tunnel

There Was Light at the End of the Tunnel

Interesting Limestone Formations

It was in Tunnel Creek that Jandamurra (an aboriginal freedom fighter) and his followers hid from the police for three years.  He had helped release aborigines who had been taken captive, in the process a policeman was shot.  He also shot and killed three cattlemen at Windjana Gorge.  After his three years of hiding he was shot at the entrance to Tunnel Creek by an Aboriginal police tracker.  Regardless of its history, we found Tunnel Creek an experience to remember.

At Exit - How High Did the Water Get?

After leaving Windjana Gorge we retraced our steps to Derby and then back to the Savannah Way stopping enroute to Fitzroy Crossing at an overnight stop at Ellendale.  This rest stop is on a ridge overlooking a plain that stretches to the horizon.  The good news for us was that we had some radio reception, the bad news was that we were in WA and the ABC ignored the Wallabies Vs Ireland Game and the Broncos Vs St George.  They just mentioned the results at the end of the West Coast Game.  (By the way West Coast won, Broncos won, Wallabies...to quote Rob, disgraceful!)

Fitzroy River

Fitzroy Crossing was our next stop, where we stayed at the Lodge.  This is a huge park with great amenities and a swimming pool which is very welcome in the afternoons.  Council workers are still busy repairing the bridge across the Fitzroy River.  After the river flooded in March/April this year the bridge was not safe for traffic which necessitated road trains having to travel many more thousands of kilometres down the middle and across the Nullarbor.  Travelling to Geike Gorge we took the old road and crossed the Fitzroy River at the original crossing and were fortunate to see two Brolgas dancing.

Brolgas at Fitzroy Crossing

Tom Cruiser at Fitzroy Crossing

Watching Shirley & David at Crossing

Geike Gorge

The gorge itself was quite interesting.  It is another section of the same limestone reef we saw at Windjana.  We went on the Department of Conservation boat ride and sighted a lot of wildlife in the water and on the shoreline (many species of birds, turtles and crocs). I’m getting quite used to these freshwater crocs now.  The largest we’ve seen is about 3 metres, which is about how long they can grow.

Another Day, Another Croc!

Freshwater Turtle

We also drove to the Crossing Inn, which was built in 1897 and is still on its original site.  The local District High School has painted murals on the exterior walls of the Inn.  There is also an art gallery at the Inn at present.  Most of the pictures looked as though they had been painted by the local primary school.  (Didn't buy any)

Group Around Fire at Mary Pool

Russian Jack Statue

Police Trackers Hut

Our next stop was at a freestay that had been recommended by quite a few fellow travellers – Mary Pool on the Mary River.  Even though the days are getting quite warm (up to 36 degrees at present ) it gets cool at night and we enjoyed once again sharing a fire with fellow travellers, and cooking on an open fire.  From there we headed towards Halls Creek.  There was a statue there dedicated to Russian Jack.  According to legend, he had pushed an injured friend in a bush wheelbarrow 300 km over a track to get medical attention.  An example of true mateship!  The other historical feature I found interesting was the Police Tracker's Hut. This housed aboriginal trackers and their wives - not sure that I would like to have lived there.  While most of Halls Creek was very run down the students of the local high school have created some murals along the main street.  It's great to see schools trying to create more community spirit.

Halls Creek Mural

Afternoon Group At Spring Creek

From there we headed to another freestay, Spring Creek, which is close to the entrance of Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles),  It was quite pleasant to walk along this freshwater stream or to sit and chat under the shady trees. 

Kapok Tree

Over the last few days we’ve passed many trees and bushes covered in bright yellow flowers.  It is believed that this tree, the kapok, was introduced to Australia by Afghan Cameleers who used kapok saddles, and eventually seeds were spread throughout Australia and are very prevalent here in the Kimberleys.  

Purnululu National Park

Tom Cruiser is Wonderful!

 With David and Shirley accompanying us we all left bright and early to drive into Purnululu National Park which, like the Ningaloo Reef is a World Heritage Area.  The drive itself was quite an experience.   While not as rough as the road into Cape Levique, it was a much longer drive – the round trip was over 200km.  We experienced not just corrugations but also bulldust, stony dry creek crossings, as well as a dozen creek crossingscomplete with water that came up above the running board of Tom Cruiser.  Was it worth it?  Yes, definitely.

'Beehive' Domes of Bungle Bungles

Cathedral Gorge

 We walked to Cathedral Gorge, from which the striped ‘beehive’ structures of the bungles were very pronounced.  Cathedral Gorge itself, must be quite spectacular when the waterfall is flowing.  There are still pools of water, but most of the water course was dry.  This natural amphitheatre is created between towering cliffs and honeycomb rocks.  From there we did the ‘Dome’ walk which was a winding walk around the banded domes ending in another smaller amphitheatre.

On Walk to Cathedral Gorge

Pathway to Echidna Chasm

On the southern end of the Bungles was Echidna Chasm.  This is a spectacular 200 metre chasm with wonderful changes of colour depending on the light.  As we walked along the dry creek bed to the chasm it was refreshing to be able to walk in the shade of livistona palms which grow in this chasm.  As you enter the chasm it is very eerie with walls of rock stretch so high above you, makes you feel very insignificant, and at times there were rocks balancing precariously above.  We also spotted a small snake (Olive Python???) which was trying desperately to find a niche in the rock to escape from our crunching footsteps.

Echidna Chasm

High Walls of Stone - Echidna Chasm

Python Echidna Chasm

 After the two hour drive back to our campsite at Spring Creek, Mark really savoured his beers after a spectacular outing.  Next we head to Kununurra where enjoying fresh fruit and vegetables will be a priority for everyone.