25 June 2011

Geraldton to Kalbarri 20/6 to 25/6

Coronation Beach & Campsite
After leaving Geraldton we were keen to get back into freestays so we headed 36 km north to Coronation Beach.  This beach, run by the Chapman Valley Council, has excellent facilities.  It has a  very safe swimming beach and we spent an enjoyable two days here. 
The view north from Coronation Beach
There are times when being away from home is quite difficult, especially when we miss family birthdays.  However on the 21st our thoughts were definitely with Eloise, who was booked into hospital to have her tonsils removed.  Thinking of you Ellie – get better soon.  Our thoughts were also with the family as they met and celebrated recent birthdays for Ryan, Georgia, and Eloise.  Also a very special Happy Birthday to Seamus who turned 21 this month.  Our thoughts are also with Trevor after his recent knee replacement surgery.  Hope he's a better patient than Mark would be!
St Mary's Church Northampton



Travelling towards Kalbarri we stopped for morning tea at Northampton.  This town features another two of Monsignor Hawes buildings – a convent and church and both buildings were ornate and very well preserved. 

Port Gregory
Pink Lake - Hutt Lagoon
We also drove to Port Gregory.  It was difficult to understand how this town was ever used as a port, as there is a reef just past the shoreline.  Not surprisingly it was closed as a port after a number of ships sunk while attempting to move into port.  It is also well known for the ‘Pink Lake’ which is Hutt Lagoon. This lake is pink due to the amount of betacarotene which naturally occurs and is processed in this area.  There is also an open cut garnet mine in Gregory.




Lynton Convict Hiring Station

Sanford House
Our overnight stay was at Lynton Station (Linga Longa Farmstay).  Ed made us very welcome even organising a fireplace and timber for a fire.  This station is on the site of the Lynton Convict Hiring Station (1853) and other convict ruins.  Prisoners – most of them ‘ticket of leave’ men - were brought to this station to be hired out as labour for the Geraldine Lead Mine and to Station Owners in the region.  Major Henry Sanford played a major role in developing this hiring station as well as maintaining his role in whaling, mining, growing crops and breeding stock.  With the help of convicts he built a two storey home with views of the coastline.  Newspaper articles of the time described Sanford House as a “magnificent villa” and this heritage listed building is slowly being restored, as are some of the derelict convict buildings.  As you can see from the picture below, the prevailing wind direction can be easily spotted and provides further evidence as to why W.A is known as 'Windy Always'.
What direction are the prevailing winds?
Castle Cove

Natural Bridge

Grandstand
 Moving on to Kalbarri there were many places to pull over and admire the scenery of the Kalbarri National Park.  This is a spectacular coastline, with coastal gorges which feature towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below.  We stopped at Castle Rock, Natural Bridge, Island Rock, Eagle Gorge and the amazing Red Bluff, which are just off the highway leading into Kalbarri.  The rusty red cliffs here have been used for centuries as a signpost for sailors that they have reached this particular spot on the coast.  It is a shame we can’t send you a real life recording of the sound of these large waves CRASHING onto this spectacular coastline.
Red Bluff
Hawks Head Canyon
Ross Graham
Donna after the walk down the canyon!
After setting up at Kalbarri, we headed off without the caravan to the river gorges of the Kalbarri National Park.  The Murchison River has carved magnificent red and white banded sandstone gorges that stretch for 80 kilometres as it makes it way to the wonderful Indian Ocean.  Our first stop was Hawk’s Head where we stood open mouthed at the vista in front of us.  From there we went to the Ross Graham Lookout and trekked down to the river. Note: As this photo shows, Donna was a little tired following a long day visiting these gorges!






On our second day in Kalbarri we ventured back into the National Park to see ‘Nature’s Window’, the ‘Z Bend’ and to walk ‘The Loop’.  Hopefully the photos will show you how spectacular these gorges are;  however I’m sure they can’t accurately reflect the vast array of colours displayed by the sandstone gorges in this national park.  
Nature's Window
Mark at The Loop
Murchison River - Loop Canyon

Z-Bend



Donna at 'The Loop'

 This town also gave us another opportunity to get back on our bikes and explore the beautiful coastal scenery of Kalbarri.
Murchison River Mouth

While the days here have been really beautiful, last night we had an interesting weather event.  We went to sleep to the sound of gentle rain and then woke suddenly very early in the morning, to the sound of the wind roaring through the treess.  Then we had a downpour that lasted only a few minutes. It was only in the morning that we found out that three caravans in the park had lost their awnings during these short wind gusts.  They said it was like a mini tornado.  Luckily we were in a more protected area!  
Farewell from beautiful Kalbarri
As you can see from this photo - life can be tough on the road.  But we'll try our hardest not to weaken!

2 comments:

  1. This is great. Get to do it all again for free. You've still got so much more to see. The Pilbara is spectacular. The northern coast is different. The water is chalky blue. Great views to wake up to. Big tides. Great fishing - use lures or plastics. Then you have the Kimberley. I still hate you.

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  2. Hi Jeff,
    It's a hard life but we're up for it! Looking forward to all the North has to offer.

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