New Norcia 6 & 7th June

Our campside on the monastery oval

If you've ever wondered what it's like to live in a traditional spanish religious community and view amazing buildings and art work then New Norcia is the place for you.

Before we restarted our trek up the coastline of Western Australia, we took a detour to the community of New Norcia.  This township and the land around it is owned and operated by the Benedictine Monks.  Two Spanish monks originally came here in 1847 to provide a mission settlement for aborigines.  Over the years they built a thriving self-sufficient community that provided housing for aboriginal boys and girls as well as a houses for aboriginal families.  The buildings that were built in the early 1900’s are stunning.  Most of these are now heritage listed and are unique.  

Benedictine Monastery

Self sufficient community  (Apiary in background)

Apiary

The Monastery still houses 8 monks who live according to Benedict’s Orders.  Their day consists of prayers in the chapel at 5:15am. 6:45am, 12pm, 2:30pm, 6:30pm and 8:15pm as well as Mass.  They welcome public attendance at any of these prayer times but had to build a new chapel away from their cloister so that women could attend.  The original chapel was built in the Spanish Style within the monk's cloister. However because women are not allowed in the cloister the new chapel is in a visitor's wing and they have transferred the original altar to this wing. The central figure in the altar is the Black Madonna, who was very special to these Spanish Monks, and the walls of the Spanish Altar included psalms praising this Madonna.  Anyone who wishes to live according to their doctrine can stay at the visitor's wing. The monk’s cloister is private but nearly every other building in the community is open to the public.

The old Spanish Chapel

New chapel with original altar

The Abbey Church bells ring to call the Monks to prayer.  The Abbey was built in the shape of a cross and is a contrast between old and new.  The old section includes paintings by Father Torres whereas there is also an area that has been decorated with sgraffito.  Sgraffito is a technique where layers of plaster of different colours are placed on a wall and then cut back to create a picture.  The pictures depict the Stations of the Cross.  However there are also other religious scenes.  If you look carefully at the nativity scene (at the top right) you will see an aboriginal based on the dreamtime 'creator'.

Abbey Church

More traditional section of Abbey

Sgraffito Decorations

The original buildings were built for aborigines.These included a boys mission and a girls orphanage.  The monks also built housing for aboriginal families.  However in the late 1890’s the community began to expand.  Three monks with very different talents arrived in Australia.  An monk architect designed new buildings including St Ildephonsus (a boarding school for boys) and St Gertrudes for girls. 

St Ildephonsus College

Altar in St Ildephonsus Chapel (made & decorated by monks)

One of Father Torres' Wall Murals

 A wood craftsman built altars, church pews, furniture, carved ceilings which enhanced the buildings.  The last talented monk was called Father Fulgentius Torres.  He painted and gilded murals on the walls and ceilings of the chapels and other buildings.  He also painted magnificent religious scenes on canvas which are in the churches today.  At one time this community consisted of 160 monks and they expanded the original grant of 30 acres up to one million hectares. They created farmland, orchards, bakeries (still sell the best bread ever!) They sold most of this land and now have only 20 hectares. The Great Northern Highway was once the shortcut they had built to Perth.  Today the amount of heavy traffic on this road is causing immense damage to the properties at New Norcia.  A cause of great concern to all in the community and all who cherish Australian History.

St Gertrude's College (for girls)

Rear of College

Altar at St Gertrude's

The monks invited Marist Brothers to teach the boys and St Joseph’s nuns to teach the girls.  There were also Spanish Nuns here, who with the monks taught the aborigines.  Each of these communities did not mix with the other and were enclosed with high brick walls.  On reading recounts of their school days at these colleges, times when they were allowed to join together in celebrations were a highlight.

Central Section of Old Convent Building

The old convent has now been converted into a Visitor’s Centre and Museum and Art Gallery.  Years ago 28 paintings were cut from their frames and stolen from New Norcia.  All but one were recovered and have been restored and form part of the present display in the gallery.  There was even one Raphael drawing- a plan for part of the mural on the Vatican ceiling.  We stood in awe in front of both the tradition European religious paintings as well as more modern Australian religious paintings including one by Pro Hart.

 

Hostel, now Hotel

Furniture (created by monks)

The monks believed in a tradition of hospitality.  They also built a hostel so families could visit their children.  This hostel is now a hotel.  Anyone can come and stay there.  Mark really enjoyed the Abbey Ale, which won a gold medal at a world beer show.  Like all the buildings in this community the upkeep must be a nightmare however there is even art in the toilets in this hotel.  The furniture was also ornate.  The monks updated the staircase in the 1900’s after they had invited the King and Queen of Spain to visit......they are still waiting!

The library was not open when we visited (open Wed, Thurs Fri) but we’ve heard that it contains books from as early as the sixth century.  It also houses diaries and maps that Cook used to plan his voyage.  It has 16 000 plus books and some of the most complete works on aboriginal customs and dialects.

One of Father Torres' Many Paintings

One of a series of 6 paintings by an aboriginal student depicting the 6 seasons recognised by traditional aborigines.

  This is a place that we would recommend everyone visit at some stage.  It is close enough to Perth to come for a day visit, but we found two days was even better.  The history, the artwork and the craftsmanship are some of the best examples of their type.  However the feel of this community is quite extraordinary...it refreshes the soul.

What do you think was the purpose of this building?