Mt Isa to Winton

Mary Kathleen Housing Slab

After leaving Mt Isa we continued heading east along the Barkly Highway towards Cloncurry.  Along the way we stopped at the former Mary Kathleen Townsite.  Mark had visited Mary Kathleen back in the mid 1980’s and said that when he was there it was a ghost town and only a few admin buildings remained at the site.  As history reveals, this former uranium mining town was never seen as a long term proposition and therefore all of the buildings and infrastructure were company owned resources.  Following the closure, the buildings were subsequently disposed of at an auction in 1982 and all that remains today are concrete slabs and roadways.

Aboriginal Memorial

Burke and Wills Memorial

 We also stopped at two memorials today; the first was a memorial to the aborigines who lived in this area and the second was a memorial to the explorer John O’Hara Burke whose party travelled through this area in their quest to travel from the south to the north of this huge continent.

Interesting Displays

Flying Gear

After setting up in Cloncurry, we headed to John Flynn Place.  This museum pays homage to the vision of Rev. John Flynn, whose work setting up Inland Missions and the Royal Flying Doctor Service was as Sir Robert Menzies said, the “single greatest contribution to the effective settlement of the far distant country that we have witnessed in our time.”  This museum was definitely well worth the price of admission. 

Pedal Radio

I was also intrigued by the work of Alfred Traeger who invented the pedal radio.  The use of these radios meant that communication could occur even from places that did not have electricity – e.g. most outback stations.

Chinamen's Creek

We also stopped at Chinamen’s Creek which is a pretty waterway created by a dam across the Cloncurry River.  There are two bridges across this river as you travel east into the town.  While the river is now just a series of pools, the size of the riverbed illustrates how the wet season will change this river dramatically.

Cloncurry River

Cloncurry Riverbed

Walkabout Creek Hotel

After leaving Cloncurry, the next morning we headed south towards Winton.  The day could be summed up as a day of Pubs and Waltzing Matilda.  We stopped first at the Walkabout Creek Hotel which was one of the many settings for the Crocodile Dundee Movies.  There were many pictures and memorabilia from the movie.  Unfortunately for Mark it was much too early for a beer. 

Interior of Hotel

Interior of Walkabout Creek Hotel

Interior of Hotel

Telegraph Lines

 As we travelled along this highway, the remnants of the overland telegraph line were often parallel to the road.  As you can imagine, many of the poles are deteriorating, but the fact that there are so many left is a testament to the engineers who worked on this extensive communication link.

 The next pub on our journey was the Blue Heeler Pub at Kynuna.  This pub also had memorabilia everywhere, but the walls were adorned with much more than this.  In fact it was here at the Blue Heeler Pub that the first public performance of Waltzing Matilda was given.  However, what caught our eye  was the large surf boat suspended above the ceiling in the beer garden.  It was marked “Coolum Beach” as well as Kynuna Surf Life Saving Club.  Apparently it was gifted to Kynuna by a fellow called Shawry.  Peter & Gary, did you know him?  They used to have a surf race down the main street (Matilda Highway). We also had a very unexpected visitor while enjoying ourselves at the Blue Heeler.  It was a mature Brolga, which according to the barmaid had adopted the pub and arrives whenever patrons stop to visit the hotel.

Great Bush Furniture in Blue Heeler

First Public Performance Info

Blue Heeler Visitor

Combo Waterhole Sign

 We then turned from the highway to the Combo Waterhole Conservation Reserve.  It was in this waterhole that a swagman drowned after being chased by troopers for stealing a sheep.  Sound familiar?  Yes this is the area where Banjo Paterson wrote “Waltzing Matilda” while he was visiting Dagworth Station.  We trekked down to the waterhole which is part of the Diamantina River and saw the coolabah trees near the billabong.  There were also hundreds of eagles circling in the sky above our heads (there must be a lot of feed available in this area). 

Donna Searching for the Shade of a Coolibah Tree

Eagles Circling Over Combo Billabong

The Dusty Diamantina

 

Cattle Desperate for Shade

After a day of travelling with the temperature at 40 degrees, we really felt for the beasts sharing the only shade trees on a property along the highway.  We certainly enjoyed the cool water in the Caravan Park pool this afternoon!

At 'Jump Up' Overlooking Plains

We spent the following day exploring Winton and its many tourist attractions.  A highlight was visiting the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Fossil Preparation Facility.  Our tour guide, George, was enthusiastic and passionate about the dinosaur remains found in this area.  As a presenter, he was definitely in the Steve Irwin mould.  Mark and I had noticed the black soil when we walked to the Combo Waterhole.  Under this layer of black soil is another lighter soil and it is in this layer that the dinosaur bones have been located.  We were quite amazed that bones have been found in 15 different properties around Winton.  We learnt that the centre coordinates a geological dig for only 3 weeks of the year (winter) and they charge $3300 a week per volunteer to be involved in the dig.  That money covers their food, drink and accommodation.  During that three weeks enough fossilized bones are uncovered and wrapped in plaster, to ensure work continues at this centre for many, many years.  Discoveries so far have included two new dinosaurs specific to Australia (nicknamed Banjo and Matilda).

George Unearthing Bone

George in Museum Section

 While at present they are using a large shed as their display area, the government has provided a grant to build an impressive new building to showcase the numerous fossilized bones.  In time if all goes according to plan, there will be a multi-million dollar Natural History Museum built on this site.  The site itself is quite spectacular, situated atop a huge mesa plateau called ‘The Jump Up’ which has views over the flat plains of Winton and surrounds.  Amazingly this land was donated to the museum by a local family.  All the time we were here, I couldn’t help but think that Declan Baker would love to check out this dinosaur display!

A 3D Jigsaw Puzzle

"Banjo"

Winton's Southern Hunter 'Banjo'

A B "Banjo" Paterson Statue

We’ve visited many museums through WA, NT and Qld but the Waltzing Matilda Centre at Winton would have to be very close to the best we've seen so far!  We started in a theatrette where the ghost told his side of the story of Waltzing Matilda. 

Around the Billabong

  However there are many parts to this museum.  Hearing tales of squatters, swagmen and Aussie history when you lifted the lid off billys, was an innovative way of presenting these tales.  Holograms of Australian identities talking about the strengths of Australians in all walks of life was also spectacular. 

Holograms Adding to the Story

Portable Blacksmith Equipment

 Then we went outside to wander around the exhibits, which included a train, farm equipment, and many other everyday items from earlier periods in the bush.  We loved the portable blacksmith’s trolley!  There were also displays about QANTAS, which has significant links to the Winton region.  This was really in our eyes - ‘a value for money experience’.  We spent several hours at the centre and it felt as though we had only managed to briefly scratch the surface!

Even a Train!

Interesting Facts

Other places of interest in the middle of town, included a musical fence and Arno’s Wall.  Sometimes we just wonder what is it that makes people think ....how about if I make that!  

Mark or Mick Fleetwood?

No Musical Gene Here!

Wall - Complete with Kitchen Sink

 Tomorrow, Longreach here we come!

Tennant Creek to Mt Isa

Bustard at Avon Downs

Hope the Police Have a Faster Vehicle Inside!

After leaving Tenant Creek we headed east along the Barkly Highway towards Queensland.  Must admit this was the most boring stretch of road that we’ve travelled so far.  The land is extremely flat, only a few gentle rises throughout the whole stretch of highway.  At present the Barkly is a mosaic of black and green – the burnt and the yet to be burnt patches of land.  We stopped at wayside stops for morning tea and lunch and although the rest stop at Avon Downs was well appointed (with a police station opposite) we decided to cross the border and travel into Queensland.  The Avon Downs Police Station was a large complex and is only 60km from the NT/Qld Border.  Don't know that they'd have police volunteering for this isolated duty.

We're Now in Queensland!

Campsite at Camooweal Billabong

Paul and Monique Prior travelled this way recently and recommended a freestay at the Camooweal Billabong.  This is a wonderful campspot right on the banks of the Georgina River, which at present is just a series of billabongs. 

Billabong

 We stayed at this campsite for two nights and enjoyed watching the variety of bird life in this area. Eagles, brolgas, ducks, egrets, shags, night heron, kites and many other unidentified birds have made their home at these billabongs.  The cattle from the neighbouring station also wander down to the waterside at times to eat the green grass and drink the water.

Brolgas at Billabong

Kite

Mark and I rode our bikes into the township of Camooweal.  It was a Sunday morning and the only places open for business were the three roadhouses.  I tried to buy a paper, but will have to wait for the grocery shop/newsagent/post office  to open the following morning.  The largest building in town is of course, the pub.  We have TV reception along our billabong, so we'll watch the World Cup Final here this afternoon.

Camooweal Pub

Mural in Camooweal

Lake Moondarra

From Camooweal we headed to Mt Isa, stopping along the way at Lake Moondarra which supplies water to the Mt Isa Region.  This weekend at Lake Moondarra there is a Fishing & Camping Expo including a barra fishing competition.   The lake is a popular recreation site for Mt Isa residents and the council have provided numerous shaded tables & benches and free gas BBQ's which are dotted all around the dam forsehore.

Mark Checking Out the Carnage!

The road into the lake (although bitumen) was quite rough and just as we approached the lake itself....DISASTER!!!  CARNAGE!!!  Our bike carrier supports fractured and our bikes were dragged a fair way until we could pull up.  The bad news is that three of the four wheels were damaged beyond repair; the good news is that the bike frames appear as though the might be salvageable.  We bought a new bike carrier and will take the remnants back with us to Brissie.  Not Happy Jan - Not Happy!

View of CBD and Mine from Lookout

For those who have not been to Mt Isa, the town is dominated by the mine.  Xstrata Mount Isa Mine is but one block from the CBD.  The chimneys of the Copper Smelter and Lead Smelter tower over the town.

While in ‘The Isa’ we visited the Underground Hospital.  Miners dug tunnels to create a hospital that could be used if Mt Isa was ever under air attack during World War II.  Luckily it was never needed, but it has now been restored as a historic site to display medical equipment, etc .  We found it quite interesting. 

Mining Statue

While playing tourist, we also did an Underground Mine Tour which was very informative, but we thought rather overpriced.  We learnt that miners work very hard in a tough environment even today - but more so in the early days of this mine.  We were amazed that another city exists underneath the Mt Isa township itself and in spite of the air shafts, the heat in the tunnels was quite unbearable and we weren't employed to bore holes into the rock faces and to cart the ore up to the surface.  As they say, the miners might be paid a lot of money - but they sure earn every cent of it!

Some of the Students

Property and Brand Names

While here we also visited the Mt Isa School of the Air.  It was fascinating to sit in on a live audio lesson, while the teacher engaged four year two students and taught them about map scale and introduced area.  The 170 students enrolled in this school come from properties extending over an area half the size of Queensland. Schooling, including the telephones and headsets (Satellite phones if necessary) is free if the student lives more than 16km from their nearest school.  They teach classes from Prep to Year 10, although many students leave for boarding schools from about year 6 up.  Each student has a 30min audio lesson each day and booklets of work to complete weekly (under the guidance of a tutor - usually parent or governess).  Mark and I had to smile because whenever the teacher asked a question of the class, the first to reply was always Laura and the other students had to be encouraged to have a turn.   They also organise minischools, sporting carnivals and sports lessons as well as camps for years 4 to 10.  Teachers also do home visits which can involve a great deal of travelling.  We enjoyed seeing the photos of students in their home surroundings.  They shared very different experiences than city kids do, eg. mum carrying a gun as she was on snake patrol; year 5 student who hit a brumby while driving his car around the property etc.  For those educators interested, the students do as well or better than the state standard in national testing and the testing is done in the Isa itself.

 At Mt Isa we are staying with David and Zintra Cheyne who have made us very welcome.  David is an old TAFE mate of Marks, and they have shared old times over dinner and a red wine or three. We visited a lookout during the day and returned in the evening.  The difference was quite amazing.  What was interesting viewing during the day, transformed into a Christmas tree at night!  It was quite spectacular!

View over Mine at Night

With David & Zintra at Lookout

We now plan to snake our way down through Cloncurry, Longreach, etc and eventually we'll head towards Tara, Meeandara, Surat,etc just to experience what country Qld has to offer.  We are aiming to be back in Brissie by mid November.

At this stage we travelled over 25,500 klms towing the van and we are still averaging 16 litres per hundred kilometres.