Katherine to Darwin 2/10 to 8/10

Campsite Nitmiluk National Park

We headed northward to Nitmiluk National Park where we stayed at the campground.  The weather is still fine and quite hot, however we haven’t hit any 'real' humidity yet.  By midday we were quite eager to cool off by swimming in the huge expanse of fresh water, surrounded by eucalypts and pandanas palm, watching water cascading over Edith Falls.  It was about 150 metres across to the waterfall – a natural amphitheatre.

Natural Ampitheatre of Plunge Pool  (Donna Swimming)

Donna at Falls

Mark in Upper Pools

In the afternoon we walked to the Upper Falls and Pools.  This area had a few more waterfalls including some crystal clear pools which were well worth the climb up the rocky mountainside.  ‘Beer o’clock’ was a little early today, but we enjoyed a late afternoon breeze under shady trees, watching lots of wildlife.  You have to love this life!

View of Upper Falls

Before we left Edith Falls we had finally decided which route we would like to take to Darwin.  Unfortunately, so many people had told us that Kakadu, was a waste of time and many called it ‘Kakadon’t’. However everyone we'd met had raved about Litchfield National Park, so we decided to go to Darwin via Kadadu and then return to Katherine after visiting Litchfield.  We headed into Kakadu and paid the $50 entry fee (which lasts for 14 days). 

 

Mardugal Billabong

Our first stop was Mardugal where we did the billabong walk.  This follows the edge of the billabong, ending at a very open expanse of water.  We then drove onto Cooinda, where we booked the Yellow Water Boat Cruise and set up camp.

Yellow River Floodplain

South Alligator River 

Plumed Whistling Ducks

Egrets

Comb Crested Jacana  - Check the Toes!

Male and Female Magpie Geese

Azure Kingfisher

Night Wing Heron

 The boat cruise was quite extraordinary.  Yellow Water is part of the South Alligator River floodplain and the variety of birds able to be viewed from the boat was quite amazing.  Our guides could relate the local's stories about these birds.  For example the Night Wing Heron, they call the ‘Look at me bird; because these birds spend a lot of time gazing into the water   (hunting for fish, not just admiring their reflections in the water).  The male magpie goose usually has two females with him at all times.  These geese have congregated in large flocks close to these billabongs.  We also saw several varieties of kingfisher, including the azure kingfisher, which was quite happy to pose for our photos.  My favourite bird was the Comb Crested Jacana, whose foot to body ratio is the largest in the bird kingdom.  Known as the  'Jesus Bird' because it uses those huge toes to help walk across the lily pads, which makes it look like it's walking on water.  The bird pictured is the male.  It looks after the young, often putting them under its wings to protect them from predators.

Jabiru - Patrolling the Shallows

Can You See His Emerald Colour Neck?

We were also fortunate to see stately Jabirus walking along the shallows.  I was amazed at their colours.  The neck is iridescent, emerald green.  Apparently they are not to be known as jabiru anymore, rather as a stork, but I still prefer the original name.

Our First Saltie!

Mouth Agape to Cool Head, While Warming Body

The Beauty and the Danger

One Huge Croc!

We also sighted the first salt water crocodiles of our trip.  These estuarine crocodiles (ginga) have lived in freshwater most of their lives – apparently only called salties because if they are in salt water they have a gland that helps release the salt from their bodies.  Salt water also helps clean off any algae they have picked up while swimming in the fresh water.  Crocs living in salt water have much paler leather, than those in the fresh water.

These crocs are the world's largest reptiles and they use stillness and camouflage to hide and lightning fast reflexes to kill.  I have a very healthy respect for them.  We watched one enter the water and literally disappear before our eyes - in ten seconds you could not even tell that it had been there.

It was hard to believe that in the 1940's to 1960's these animals came close to extinction, as they were hunted for skins and sport.  Since protection in the 70's their numbers have increased dramatically.   Their only enemies now are goannas, birds, fish and feral pigs who feed on eggs and young crocs.  Very few reach maturity and when they do the males sometimes fight to the death defending their territory.

Going

Going

Gone!

Feral Horse and Friends

In Kakadu, feral animals have been a problem virtually since Europeans first arrived.  It took a long time for the locals to convince the government that culling was necessary.  It was only when tuburculosis spread from the feral buffalo to cattle in the Northern Territory that they allowed park authorities to remove these animals.  Since the 70's 20 000 water buffalo have been removed from the park, resulting in the return of the water lilies.
Rangers have also removed most of the horses, unfortunately feral pigs have been much harder to remove.  It was said that the pigs are much too clever, they hide when helicopters come near and when traps are laid, often the tracks of trotters encircle the trap but nothing is caught.   Cane toads also arrived here in 2001 and there was a decline at first in the turtle and crocodile population, but the salties have now learnt how to eat the toads without getting sick. The rangers believe however that cane toads will be the greatest threat to Kakadu in the future.

Mark & Donna at Nourlangie Rock

In Kakadu they have free ranger-guided activities that everyone can access.  We joined one of the guided walks through the wetland at Yellow River.  We also visited the Stone Country of the Nourlangie Region and enjoyed learning about the countryside, the culture, including aboriginal law, land and family.  These very informative talks gave us an insight into the people who lived in the Anbangbang Shelter during the wet season and the messages conveyed in their artwork - most of which is over 2000 years old.  Archaeologists working in the shelter have verified habitation there for at least 20 000 years.  When they were excavating the site,  the local indigineous people who still live in the area were able to explain and demonstrate what the implements they uncovered were used for. Amazing isn't it - Stonehenge is much younger and yet we really are guessing as to what it was all about!

Part of Stone Shelter

Stone Shelter & Artwork

Namarrgon (Lightnight Man) was an interesting character in the artwork.  He lives in the stone country escarpment of Arnhem Land and brings lightning and thunder to Kakadu.  The lightning encircles his body, while stone axes on his elbows, knees and head are what creates the thunder.

Namarrgon

However there was a lot of other artwork - some showing dancing, others hunting scenes, while some were just picture upon picture.

Nabulwinjbulwinj

Info on Artwork

Dancing Figures

Cultural Message in Art

Picture upon Picture

Arnhem Land Escarpment

On another day we spent a whole day driving to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls which are very close to the Arnhem Land Escarpment that separates Kakadu from Arnhem Land.   Even though the distance was less than 60 kilometres from our campsite at Coolinga, it was a whole day excursion due mainly to the condition of the road and also the time it takes to trek into both sites.  Nevertheless we had a wonderful, but exhausting day.  Our feet were aching by the end!

Donna on Walk to Jim Jim Falls

Views on Way to Jim Jim Falls

While the falls at Jim Jim are not running at present, when we stopped at the campground the managers told us of a huge storm that had arrived in the area the previous night – torrents of rain which lasted for over an hour.  They also warned us that the creek crossings might be a bit higher than normal.  From the campsite it is a 4wd track only, very rough and windy.  The  hour long walk into Jim Jim started off quite easy, however by the end we were climbing up and down huge boulders.  Even though the falls weren’t running, the scenery was still fantastic.  The sheer cliff face loomed 200 metres above us. It must be truly awe inspiring when torrents of water are gushing over the cliff face and creating a mist around the plunge pool.  Luckily it was safe to swim in the Jim Jim plunge pool at the end of the walk and we really enjoyed the cool water, knowing that we had to walk the whole way back again to the vehicle!

Sheer Walls Looming Above

 

Plunge Pool

Mark Found a Fellow Queenslander!

Jim Jim Billabong Crossing

Boat at Twin Falls

From there we drove to Twin Falls – crossing the Jim Jim Billabong along the way.  This is not usually a problem in the dry, however the depth gauge showed 68cm as we crossed.

   Arriving there we discovered that we wouldn’t have to walk all the way to the falls as there is a boat that takes you halfway up the gorge.  The ranger also told us that we might just be one of the last visitors of the year,  if any more water comes down they will be forced to close the access road!  Apparently up until ten years ago, to get into the gorge you would have to swim the first part of the journey and trust that the crocodiles weren't looking for a feed.    I must admit it was worth the money  ($12.50) to be able to sit in the comfort  of a boat and enjoy the tranquillity of this wonderful place.

How About the Clarity of the Water?

Mark on Walk to Twin Falls

White Bellied Sea Eagle

It was then only a 20 minute walk (& scramble) to the Twin Falls.  Yes they were running!  Unfortunately because of the increase in water we’d been warned it was definitely not safe for swimming there at the moment, mainly because they suspected that a few rougue salties had entered the large pools.  We just enjoyed the wonderful views and the freshwater showers pumped from the river to help walkers cool down! 

Twin Falls Canyon

Mark & Donna at Twin Falls

 After the drive back to camp, we got to enjoy our first drops of rain since we left Perth on the 3^rd of June when we had a 3 minute storm!  Namarrgon must be starting to get busy.... the build up to the wet season has begun!

Really Should Have Brought an Encyclopaedia of Aust Birds With Us!

 

Kakadu is 'Kakadu-must-do' to us,  we've really enjoyed our time here.  There's lots to do, we know we've only just touched the surface - however Darwin and the World Cup Quarter Finals beckons!